Canals sets the standard that every fishmonger should aspire to. Their seafood is of superb quality, and absolutely fresh. If it isn't, they don't sell it.

What I particularly like is that they'll offer honest and knowledgeable advice on what to buy and how to cook it. Want to make a fish curry? Seafood paella? Thai fish cakes? Crumbed fish? Something stir-fried with noodles? Tell the staff what you want to make, and they'll help you select the right seafood for it, in the right quantity, and offer you advice on cooking it.

Their suggested fish today might be different from what they suggested last week, because it depends on what was best and freshest at the wholesale fish market this morning.

I've always felt that their advice is honest. I've never once had the impression that they were just trying to get rid of whatever fish they had a surplus of. They have a reputation as one of Melbourne's finest fishmongers, and they care too much about that reputation ever to sell anything that's less than perfect to their customers.

On rare occasions I've tried a new type of fish that I haven't found entirely to my taste, but that's to be expected if you're going to be a bit adventurous - you're not going to like everything. In no way is it a reflection on the quality of their fish. More often when I've tried a new type of fish that they've recommended, it has turned out to be delightful.

Canals is not the cheapest fishmonger you'll ever find. Almost certainly you can find cheaper seafood at the Victoria Market. But that means putting up with the crowds and the shouting. I've never been able to ask advice from anyone at the Vic Market - there are always too many customers waiting behind me. At Canals, you can take all the time you want, to get all the advice you need.